Nightlife and entertainment

Entertainment in Mumbai tends to revolve around bars, nightclubs and restaurants; performance spaces are few and far between. The best theatre, Indian classical music and dance takes place at the National Centre for the Performing Arts at Nariman Point (see below). For information about entertainment events, pick up a copy of the local edition of Time Out, a listings magazine.

National Centre for the Performing Arts
NCPA Marg
Nariman Point
Tel: +91 22 5654 8141/49
Website

Overlooking the sea at the southern tip of Nariman Point, this is Mumbai's performing arts hub, with several theatres, a restaurant, library and gallery. You can catch a classical music concert at the main Tata Theatre; Indian dance at the Godrej Theatre and English-language plays at the Experimental Theatre. The Piramal Gallery hosts regular photography exhibitions, and all-day dining is offered at the quiet Sidewok restaurant.

Prithvi Theatre
Janki Kutir Society
Juhu Church Rd
Tel: +91 22 2614 9546, 2618 3568
Website

The Prithvi, in an uptown suburb near Juhu Beach, is named after Prithviraj Kapoor, India's first big film star. Founded by his daughter-in-law, Jennifer Kendal, an English actress (sister of Felicity Kendal), the theatre is a popular spot for new plays.


Cinema

Since Mumbai is the home of Bollywood, it's obligatory to catch a screening. Films are rarely subtitled, but don't let that deter you: plots are simple and the frequent musical interludes irresistible. The air-conditioning and ice creams offer pleasant respite from the humidity.

For the best atmospherics, visit one of the few art-deco picture palaces remaining downtown (and sit in the balcony): the Regal, on Colaba Causeway; the New Empire, near Victoria Terminus; or Eros, opposite Churchgate rail station. Western movies are also screened. Tickets for blockbusters may need to be booked in advance.


Bars and clubs

Befitting its status as India's most sociable city—and the centre of Bollywood—Mumbai's nightlife has boomed in recent years. Dance bars with live bump-and-grind routines set to Bollywood music used to have a big following, but censorious politicians successfully forced their closure in mid-2005, despite strong resistance. Now, nightclubs and lounge bars (often off hotel lobbies) are especially popular, but they can be noisy and over-crowded. If you enjoy conversation with your drink, try our recommendations.

Go stargazing

The Dome
Hotel Intercontinental
Marine Drive
Tel: +91 22 5639 9999

Sink into a white sofa at this stylish rooftop bar, be rendered breathless by the view over Back Bay and try not to stare too obviously at the Bollywood startlets holding court. Just how the Dome will cope with the Mumbai monsoon remains a mystery: expect it to close temporarily in heavy rain. Nevertheless, it gets our vote as Mumbai's best spot for a drink.
Geoffrey's
Hotel Marine Plaza
Marine Drive
Tel: +91 22 2285 1212

The “English pub” theme at Geoffrey's may be a little overdone, but this is a comfortable and friendly spot. Staff pour a decent pint for the many business workers from Nariman Point who drop by on their way home.

Busaba
4 Mandlik Rd
Colaba
Tel: +91 22 2204 3779/69

We found this bar quiet and cosy on our visit during the week. The drinks are far cheaper than at fashionable Indigo next door, and the Middle Eastern music is rather seductive. The bar serves good food, too: try the Vietnamese pancake stuffed with chicken and prawns. There is a restaurant upstairs.

Not Just Jazz by the Bay
Soona Mahal
143 Marine Drive
Tel: +91 22 2285 1876, 2282 0957

Live bands, karaoke and dancing make this popular venue one of Mumbai's livelier night spots. It also produces quite a reasonable pizza in a pleasant waterfront setting, handy for the hotels nearby. There is an admission fee of 150-200 rupees.
Olive Bar and Kitchen
Off the northern end of Carter Rd
Bandra-Khar West
Tel: +91 22 2605 8228, 2625 8229
Website

Be prepared to shout out your drinks order to bar staff at this noisy but very fashionable spot in one of Mumbai's hippest suburbs. As the name indicates, both the menu and décor are Mediterranean.
Zenzi
Waterfield Rd
Bandra West
Tel: +91 22 5643 0670

A good way to sample Mumbai's trendy Bandra suburb is to visit Zenzi, a lively lounge bar and restaurant. Come early (before 10.30pm) to avoid the crowds of teenage revellers.

As far as clubs go, we like Enigma, a sleek haunt in the J W Marriott hotel in Juhu. For a low-key evening, try Vie Lounge Bar (also in Juhu), which has a fabulous view of the sea. In Bandra, Club 9 and Seijo and the Soul Dish are both buzzing (but go before 10pm; after that you'll have trouble getting in).

Moreover


Mocha
Nagin Mahal
Churchgate, Veer Nariman Rd
Tel: +91 22 5633 6070

Mumbai's Mocha coffee shops, the creation of a local entrepreneur (who also runs Salt Water Grill) are more than just cafés. People come to meet and linger well into the evening, sipping coffee, chai, cold drinks and puffing on aromatic water pipes. At this branch, just up the street from Marine Drive, expect fez-clad waiters, comfortable couchettes and beanbags and an inviting courtyard.